15 February 2012

Thinking of moving here?

I get lots of queries from people who are thinking of moving to Croatia.   Many have only visited Croatia for a week, maybe two, during the high season, staying in a hotel or renting a vacation home by the sea.  Some have visited once or twice for an entire summer...but stayed for free at a distant relative's apartment or summer home.  While the experience was probably fantastic...it was, nonetheless, artificial.  Life in Croatia is like life in any other place.  You've got work to do, bills to pay, sometimes it rains, or snows, sometimes it gets cold, sometimes the heating breaks down and can't be fixed for a couple days.  Sometimes your car won't start.  Sometimes you've got to go to the doctor or dentist or chiropractor.  Sometimes you sprain an ankle and can't walk up the 45 stairs to your apartment.  Sometimes your company shuts down and leaves you unemployed.  Sometimes taxes go up.   Real life.

There's an additional aspect to life in Croatia that visitors may not be aware of, and it is this:  there is a distinct difference between life in the summer and life in the low season.  Lots of places that are lively and crowded during the summer can actually be extraordinarily quiet during the low season.  Yup.  Especially the islands.  So if your only experience of Croatia is Dubrovnik in July, or Mali Losinj in august, or Rovinj in June....and your idea is to move here and work at a cafe for the year while you bask in the sun...you'd better think again.  many of the cafes, bars, shops, and even some hotels are only open from May-September. 

So, before making any permanent plans about moving here, I strongly suggest the following:
-take an entire month off work.  Yup, you read that right.  An entire month (two is even better)
-rent a place in Croatia in the actual city/town/village where you believe you want to live.  Don't spend a month in Dubrovnik, and then move to Zagreb.  The places are completely different.  Also, if you want to live on an island, then rent a place for an entire month on that island to see what happens during the winter months
-here's the kicker though:  rent a place for a month during the lowest of the low season.  In Croatia, I'd have to say that January or February is about right.  Don't come in the spring or summer or fall.  It is very nice during those months.  Come in January or February.

And stay exclusively in your rental place.  DO NOT travel more than 30 minutes outside of your rental place.  DO NOT go to other countries, or other parts of the country.  Trust me on this:  you cannot judge what it is like to live in Croatia by spending 3 days here, and then spending the rest of your visit in Italy, France, Germany, and a side trip to the UK.  

During your one month stay:
-buy groceries and cook real meals everyday
-buy cleaning materials and clean your kitchen, bathroom and do some dusting
-do your own laundry every few days
-go to the market
-visit a doctor,
-visit a dentist,
-get an eye exam,
-go to the bank to gather information on how to open an account and what type of account you can open based on your status
-go for job interviews
-get a shirt dry-cleaned
- get a hair cut
-check out apartment rentals with an agent
-call on any local friends/family members during the middle of the work-day often to see what they're up to
-check out language classes
-get yourself a public transit pass

You can't do all of the above in a 1 or 2 week visit.  People need 3 weeks to acclimate to a new situation, so it will really be in the 4th week that you start to really feel like you live here.  The 4th week is when you will know if you want to move here. 

Also, hope that there is terrible weather during your stay.  I mean terrible.  The logic is this:  if you can like living in a new place at its absolute worst time of year, then you'll love it during the best time of the year.  But the opposite is not true....you might love a place during its best times....but absolutely hate it during the low season. 

After your month spent here really 'living' like a local,  you'll know if you want to live here full time.  Or if what you really want is to just visit for a vacation during high season.  Nobody can tell you the answer.  Everybody is different. 

I hope this helps anybody out there who is contemplating a move to Croatia.  Come on over.  Slam the doors and kick the tires.  And take 'er for a spin.  And let me know how it goes.

5 comments:

mike said...

Hi Gabriella,
Thank you VERY much for writing this piece.
My wife and 2 young children are struggling with the HUGE decision of uprooting our lives in the US and moving back to the land our parents left 40+ years ago. Your article is really spot on and some fantastic points all around.

We're continuing our saga down the road to a final decision.... and we'll certainly be using points from your article during our process.

Keep up the great writing and we're looking forward to reading more of your stories from Croatia!

mike said...

Hi Gabriella,
Thank you VERY much for writing this piece.
My wife and 2 young children are struggling with the HUGE decision of uprooting our lives in the US and moving back to the land our parents left 40+ years ago. Your article is really spot on and some fantastic points all around.

We're continuing our saga down the road to a final decision.... and we'll certainly be using points from your article during our process.

Keep up the great writing and we're looking forward to reading more of your stories from Croatia!

Gabriella said...

Hi, and thanks for the kind comments. Things are changing fast here in Croatia as they get closer and closer to entry into the EU next year. I can't stress enough how important it is to come here and stay for several weeks and to go and check out the situations that are important to you...like schools or daycare or medical professionals, etc. If you don't have a good handle on the language, then start learning it intensively now in your home country where you've got someone to help you out in English.

Nobody knows how things will change next July when we enter the EU...we are all holding our collective breath and hoping for the best.

Good luck with your move!

Anonymous said...

Hello Gabriella,

What an interesting read. I am also thinking about moving (not permanently but still for 2-3 years) to Croatia, and I do agree with everything you have written about how it's easy to fantasize about a new place one wants to move to. But I have been a mover and Croatia would be my 7th country to live in. I live in Sweden now by the way.

My situation, however, is slightly different. First of all, I haven't even been to Croatia yet. Perhaps, that's not a good start, but I will of course visit the place before deciding to move.

There is actually a company in Zagreb which I would like to apply for. What the company does really excites me and they are currently recruiting internationally. I would be working as an engineer there.

I don't have any detail on what sort of compensation it will offer. I simply want to see if the company would be willing to hire me first, and see if life there can be acceptable (I don't expect it to be the same level as Sweden, of course).

I'm wondering now if life there as an expat engineer is okay. I'm not expecting to make a lucrative living but expect to live a middle class standard of living, perhaps. Is that even realistic? I hold Canadian citizenship and I would of course need a visa to work there.

Thanks in advance for your kind tips.

/Kevin

Gabriella said...

Hi Kevin,

I don't know any engineers here, so I can't comment on what their standard of living is...and therefore can't be much help in giving you any extra information on what to expect here as an engineer. Again, this is why it is so important to make the effort to visit Croatia for a bit BEFORE you accept any offers. Come and talk to other engineers, see prospective apartment rentals (and car rentals, etc). Check out the furniture stores, clothing shops, restaurants, etc. And see for yourself if it is to your liking. Also, be sure to find out where your job will be located. The head office might be in Zagreb, but they might be sending you on projects for days or weeks at a time in various parts of the country...and even to other countries.

That's all I can really tell you. I myself don't live in Zagreb anymore (I moved out to the countryside to a very very small village) so I'm not up to speed on how much things cost in the big city, what parking is like, how's traffic, what's the scoop on the latest politics, etc.

Hope this helps. Good luck with your plans.